Thursday, 6 June 2013

How NOT to do the West Highland Way - Part 2



Day 2 


Drymen to Rowardennan 


I woke early on the second morning as the sunlight was already very bright, and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. As I got all my gear packed up and ready to go the others began to slowly emerge from their tents. By the time we all had breakfast and everyone then went to pack up their things I'd already had a good few hours of hanging about which was quite frustrating, but at least we were still setting off much earlier than the previous day.

We posed next to the wishing well and each made a wish before setting off. I wished that my feet would hold out for the day, as I already had a few small blisters, which didn't hurt yet, but I hoped they wouldn't get any worse. The walk into Drymen was rather uneventful along a hedgerow and then a road, but we passed a few nice buildings and then saw a family of hares running in front of us as we made a steep climb up hill. 

The path then navigated away from the road and across some hilly grassland which is where my feet really began to hurt. We had a few moments rest and I changed into trainers hoping that the change of shoes would stop my feet rubbing in the same already sore places. We then walked through some farmland and passed the East Drumquassle site where we had originally planned to camp. It looked reasonable enough apart from the close proximity to the farm animals which may have created unwanted noise and smells. 

Loch Lomond almost in sight





We finally entered the Garadhban forest which was absolutely swarming with midges, so we had to keep moving quickly. The sun had been beating down relentlessly all morning, and I could already feel the back of my neck burning (which is very rare for me!), so the shade was very welcome indeed at this point. This was short lived however, as many of the trees had been felled in order to open up the views to Loch Lomond, and as we climbed the hill I must say the views were breathtaking.





This was quite a difficult part of the walk for all of us, mainly due to the heat. In my whole 28 years of living in Scotland I don't think I can remember ever having a day as hot as this, especially at the end of May. The path kept winding around corners and disappearing so we were all dismayed when we saw that we still had further to continue unsheltered. The path underfoot was very stony and quite a challenge for my trainers, so as we finally approached Conic hill myself and two others decided to take the shortcut to Balmaha down the hill and along the road.
 

 
The view opening up over Loch Lomond




We went straight down to the loch and took off our socks and shoes and dipped our feet into the cool water, which felt absolutely wonderful. We stayed in Balmaha for a few hours, waiting on the others to arrive and had something to eat and drink, sitting in the gorgeous sunshine ( it was now gorgeous that we were sitting down; when we were walking in it it was hellish! ) 


When I stood up again I almost fell down as the pain in my feet was so great. I had to limp off to the bathroom and assess the situation. What I found was horrifying - the blisters had gotten much worse, so my wish in the well this morning hadn't come true afterall. The stony path through the Garadhban forest had cut through the thin soles of my trainers and ripped my feet to shreds. I had blisters between my toes, on my heels, and some giant ones on the balls of my feet. I knew that my walking for the day was over.
 

Rowardennan Hostel






I decided to get a taxi to our next stop - the Hostel at Rowardennan. Another girl from our group came, plus two 18 year old German girls who were also going that way. It ended up being not too expensive between the four of us. We got chatting and I said that my feet were hurting from the day's walk, so the German girl showed me what she uses - but unfortunately I can't remember the name of it! I was surprised to see such young girls doing a walk like this alone, especially in a foreign country, but they said that they were very experienced walkers despite their age. We kept them entertained for the journey with our pronounciation of 'Edinburgh' which is more like "Enbra" rather than their americanised "Edinboro"

We checked into the hostel, and I was glad to find that the six of us were sharing the same room. I don’t think I could have handled any strangers at that point as my feet were still agony. The hostel was reasonably quiet at this point anyway, as most people were still walking. I put some antiseptic on my feet, but didn't bother with any plasters or compeeds as I thought it would be best to let the air into them. I put my flip flops on, ordered two beers, then limped outside to sit on the grass.
 

Afternoon sunshine at Rowardennan





We had a lovely afternoon just sitting by the Lochside. The surrounding area of the hostel was absolutely gorgeous, and so was the weather - my little spot of paradise on the whole Way. We went up and sat on the pier with our feet dangling in the water, and met one of the German girls again. There were some gulls swooping around us and she told me in Germany they were called Die Mowe. My friend said that we called them "Pigeons: the rats of the sea".  I didn't bother to correct her, so now somebody in Germany thinks that seagulls are called pigeons.

;
Paradise :)



The rest of the group eventually arived, and we sat outside until the midges became unbearable, so had to move indoors. We were happy just to have an early-ish night as we knew tomorrow was going to be tough.





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